Rome: the center and the suburbs, lounges and highways, tattoo studios and recording rooms. This is the background of photographer Paolo Cenciarelli who, between 1998 and 2015, told the story of an epochal change, the beginning of the Roman Underground in a new millennium made of music, concerts, tattoos and an ever-present counterculture underworld. What is counterculture? “It’s what will become fashion after ten years”, someone once said. This is the spirit that accompanies Vangelo, the most exhaustive and irreverent collection of photographs that take as their protagonist the eternal city, holy and sinful, always the same and always different, populated by the noble poor, the rich drug dealers, decadent scenarios and abandoned treasures, suburbs without name and ruins of an old and never forgotten opulence.